Journeying West Before 1840

Trade of Kentucke, pp 39-48

A CONVENIENT situation for commerce is the grand hinge upon which the population, riches and happiness of every country greatly depends. I believe many conceive the situation of Kentucke to be unfavourable in this respect. I confess when I first visited this country I was of the opinion of other misinformed men, that the best channel was from Philadelphia or Baltimore, by the way of Pittsburg, {Note : From Philadelphia to Pittsburg is a land-carriage of 320 miles, from Baltimore 280.] and from thence down the Ohio; and upon account of the difficulties and expences attending this route, for which there is no remedy, that goods would ever be dear. This opinion I have since reprobated, as the effect of ignorance of the trade up the Mississippi from New Orleans, or Mantchac, at the river or gut Iberville.

Those who are acquainted with America know the Mississippi and Ohio rivers to be the key to the northern parts of the western continent. These are the principal channels through which that extensive region, bathed by their waters, and enriched by the many streams they receive, communicate with the sea, and may truly be considered as the great passage made by the Hand of Nature for a variety of valuable purposes, and principally to promote the happiness and benefit of mankind; amongst which, the conveyance of the produce of that immense and fertile country lying westward of the United States is not the least. A short description of these rivers, and some others flowing into them, are objects submitted to the reader's attention, in order to form a a just idea of the favourable commercial circumstances of that important country.

The Ohio river begins at Pittsburg, 320 miles west of Philadelphia, being there formed by the junction of the Alleghany and Monangehela rivers, and running a winding course of S. 60° West, falls into the Mississippi 1074 miles, by the meanders of the river, below Pittsburg. The only obstruction to navigation on this river are the Rapids, as described before under the description of the Kentucke rivers; but they are passed in safety when the stream is high.

The most remarkable branches composing the head waters of Ohio are Red-stone Creek, Cheat River, and Yochiaghany. These waters are navigable to a considerable distance above Pittsburg, from November until June, and the Ohio a month longer; but from great Kenhawa, which is one hundred and ninety-six miles and a half below Pittsburg, the stream is navigable most of the year. Down this river great quantities of goods are brought, and some are conveyed up the Kentucke rivers, others on horse-back or in waggons to the settled parts, and sold on an average at one hundred pounds per cent. advance.

The current of the Ohio descends about two miles an hour in autumn, and when the waters
are are high, about five miles. Those of the Kentucke rivers are much the same, and without rapids, and are of immense value to the country, affording fish and fowl, and transportation of the produce of the country to the best market. These rivers increase the Ohio more in depth than breadth. At its mouth it is not more than one and a half mile in width, and enters the Mississippi in a S. west direction with a flow current, and a fine channel. This great river, at the junction with the Ohio, runs in a S. east direction and afterwards in a S. west, having been a little before joined by a greater river called Missouri, [Note : The Missouri is supposed to be about 3000 miles long.] which runs in an eastward direction through Louisiana, and afterwards communicates to the Mississippi [Note The Mississippi is said to be about 2500 miles long.] its own muddy and majestic appearance. From the mouth of the Ohio to New Orleans, a distance not exceeding 460 miles in a straight line, is about 856 by water. The depth is, in common, eight or ten fathoms until you approach its mouth, which empties itself by several channels into the gulf of Mexico. Here the navigation is dangerous, on account of the many islands, sand bars and logs, interspersed in its mouth, which is about twenty miles wide.

This disadvantage may be remedied almost in the same manner that the stream was disconcerted. The conflict between the sea and this mighty river, which brings down with its stream great numbers of trees, mud, leaves, &c. causes them to subside and form shoals. One of these trees, stopped by its roots or branches, will soon be joined by thousands more, and so fixed, that no human force is able to remove them. In time they are consolidated, every flood adds another layer to their height, forming islands, which at length are covered with shrubs, grass and cane, and forcibly shift the bed of the river. In this manner we suppose most of the country on each side of the Mississippi, below the Iberville, to have been formed, by islands uniting to islands, which in a succession of time have greatly encroached on the sea, and produced an extensive tract of country. If some of the floating timber at the mouths of this river were moved into some of the channels, numbers more would incorporate with them; and the current being impeded in these, the whole force of the river uniting, one important channel would forceably be opened, and sufficiently cleared, to admit of the most excellent navigation.

About ninety-nine miles above Orleans is a fort, now called Mantchac by the Spaniards; formerly Fort Bute by the English, who built it. Near this is a large a large gut, formed by the Mississippi, on the east side, called Iberville; some have dignified it with the name of River, when the Mississippi, its source, is high. This is navigable at most not above four months in the year for the first ten miles; for three miles further it is from two to six feet in autumn, and from two to four fathoms the remaining part of the way to lake Maurepas, receiving in its course the river Amit, which is navigable for batteaux to a considerable distance.

Lake Maurepas is about ten miles in length, and seven in breadth; and there is a passage of seven miles between this and Lake Pontchartrain.

Lake Pontchartrain is about forty miles long, twenty four broad, and eighteen feet deep. From this lake to the sea the channel is ten miles long, and three hundred yards wide, and the water deep enough to admit large vessels through these lakes, and their communications. This place, is attended to, might be of consequence to all the western country, and to the commerce of West-Florida: For it may reasonably be supposed, that the inhabitants and traders of the western country would rather trade at this place than at New Orleans, if they could have as good returns for their peltry, and the produce of their soil, as it makes a considerable difference in their voyage, and saves labour, money and time. Experience will doubtless produce considerable improvements, and render the navigation of the Mississippi, either by these lakes, or New Orleans, nearly as cheap as any other. That the Mississippi can answer every valuable purpose of trade and commerce is proved already to a demonstration by experience.

I have reason to believe that the time is not far distant when New Orleans will be a great trading city, and perhaps another will be built near Mantchac, at Iberville, that may in time rival its glory.

A prodigious number of islands, some of which are of great extent, are interspersed in that mighty river; and the difficulty in ascending it in the Spring when the floods are high, is compensated by eddies or counter currents, which mostly run in the bends near the banks of the river with nearly equal velocity against the stream, and assist the ascending boats. This river is rapid in those parts which have clusters of islands, shoals and sand-banks; but the rapidity of these places will be no inconvenience to the newly invented mechanical boats, it being their peculiar property to sail best in smart currents. [Note : This plan is now in agitation in Virginia, and recommended to government by two gentlemen of first rate abilities, Mr. Charles Rumsey and Doct. James M'Macken. Their proposals are, "to construct a species of boat, of the burthen of ten tons, that shall sail, or be propelled by the force of mechanical powers thereto applied, up the stream of a fresh water river the distance of between 25 and 40 miles a day, notwithstanding the velocity of the water should move at the rate of 10 miles an hour, to be wrought at no greater expence than that of three hands."]

From New Orleans to the Falls of Ohio, batteaux, carrying about 40 tons, have been rowed by eighteen or twenty men in eight or ten weeks, which, at the extent, will not amount to more than five hundred pounds expence, which experience has proved to be about one third of that from Philadelphia. It is highly probable that in time the distance will be exceedingly shortened by cuting a-cross bends of the river.

Charlevoix relates, that at Coupee or Cut-point, the river formerly made a great turn, and some Canadians, by deepening the channel of a small brook, diverted the waters of the river into it. The impetuosity of the stream was so violent, and the soil of so rich and loose a quality, that in a short time the point was entirely cut through, and the old channel left dry, except in inundations, by which travellers save 14 leagues of their
voyage. The new channel has been sounded with a line of thirty fathoms without finding bottom. When the distance is shortened, which I believe may readily be done, and the mechanical boats brought to their highest improvement, the expences of a voyage from New Orleans to the Falls of Ohio will be attended with inconsiderable expence. Now we know by experience that forty tons of goods cannot be taken to the Falls of Ohio from Philadelphia under sixteen hundred pounds expence; but by improvements on the Mississippi, with the conveniences of these boats, goods can be brought from New Orleans to the Falls for the tenth part of that expence; and if they are sold at one hundred pounds per cent. now, when brought from Philadelphia at expences so great, what may the merchant afford to sell his goods at, who brings them so much cheaper? Besides, the great advantages arising from the exporting of peltry, and country produce, which never can be conveyed to the eastern ports to any advantage. It is evident also that the market from which they receive imports, must consequently receive their exports, which is the only return they can possibly make.

By stating the commerce of Kentucke in its proper terms, we find the expences such, that we conclude with propriety, that that country will be supplied with goods as cheap as if situated but forty miles from Philadelphia.

But perhaps it will be replied, New Orleans is in the possession of the Spaniards, who, whenever they please, may make use of that fort, and some others they have on the Mississippi, to prevent the navigation, and ruin the trade. The passage through Iberville is also subject to the Spaniards, and besides, inconvenient; that stream continuing so short a time, and in the most disadvantageous season.

I grant it will be absurd to expect a free navigation of the Mississippi whilst the Spaniards are in possession of New Orleans. To suppose it, is an idea calculated to impose only upon the weak. They may perhaps trade with us upon their own terms, while they think it consistent with their interest, but no friendship in trade exists when interest expires; therefore, when the western country becomes populous and ripe for trade, sound policy tells us the Floridas must be ours too. [Note : Article 8th of the late Definitive Treaty, says, The navigation of the Mississippi River from its source to the ocean, shall for ever remain free and open to the subjects of Great-Britain and the citizens of the United States.] According to the articles of the Definitive Treaty, we are to have a free and unmolested navigation of the Mississippi; but experience teaches mankind that treaties are not always to be depended on, the most solemn being broken. Hence we learn that no one should put much faith in any state; and the trade and commerce of the Mississippi River cannot be so well secured in any other possession as our own.


Although the Iberville only admits of a short and inconvenient navigation, yet if a commercial town were built there, it would be the center of the western trade; and a land carriage of ten or twelve miles would be counted no disadvantage to the merchant. Nay, I doubt not, that in time a canal will be broke through the gut of Iberville, which may divert the water of Mississippi that way, and render it a place of the greatest consequence in America; but this important period is reserved for futurity.


(note: I inserted the footnotes from the orginial into the text)